Madame Nhu

The Incredible Origin Story of pho

Author: Madame Nhu

Date: 2024

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Phở, Vietnam's beloved noodle soup, has a rich and somewhat debated origin story. Historical sources suggest that pho likely originated in the early 20th century in Northern Vietnam, possibly in the Nam Định Province. The dish is believed to have been influenced by both Chinese and French culinary traditions. The French popularised the consumption of beef in Vietnam, which was not a common practice before their colonial rule.

The name "pho" is thought to be derived from the French dish "pot-au-feu," a beef stew. Other writers argue that it may have been derived from a Chinese dish called 牛肉粉 or beef with noodles. The Chinese character for 粉 (pinyin: fěn) is pronounced "fuh", which is similar to the Vietnamese "pho".

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1930s: Chicken Pho

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Initially, pho was sold by street vendors who carried mobile kitchens on poles, serving the dish at dawn and dusk. The traditional pho consisted of a simple broth made by simmering beef bones, rice noodles, and minimal garnishes. Over time, the recipe evolved, incorporating more complex flavours and ingredients.

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Chicken pho was one of the first evolution of this dish. During the mid- to late-1930s, the French colonial government limited the selling of beef in order to preserve cattle for agricultural purposes as well as regulating the meat market. The colonial rulers wanted to ensure that beef remained available for the French population in Vietnam. Historians believe that during this period, resourceful cooks and street vendors started substituting chicken for beef. Chicken pho remains a popular offering alongside its beef counterpart ever since. 

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1954: Pho Arrives in the South

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The year 1954 was a pivotal moment in Vietnamese history and had a significant impact on the next evolution of pho: its spread to South Vietnam.

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In 1954, the Geneva Accords resulted in the division of Vietnam into North and South Vietnam. With the help of the French, the partition led to a mass migration with many Northerners, many of whom were Catholics, moving to the South to escape the communist regime. These migrants brought with them their culinary traditions, including pho.

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Once in the South, pho underwent significant changes. The economy of the South was much more prosperous than the North at the time and remained predominantly agricultural. The Southern version of pho, known as Pho Nam, reflected the South's greater availability of produces and wealth. Pho Nam thus became more elaborate compared to its frugal Northern counterpart.

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The migration and subsequent adaptation of pho in the South reflect the broader cultural and social changes occurring in Vietnam during this period. The dish became a symbol of the blending of Northern and Southern Vietnamese cultures, showcasing the resilience and adaptability of the Vietnamese people.

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Some key differences and developments include:

• Broth: Southern pho typically features a sweeter and more robust broth, often enhanced with additional spices and herbs.

• Garnishes: Southern pho is known for its extensive use of fresh herbs, bean sprouts, lime, and chilli, which are served on the side for diners to customise their bowls.

• Noodles and Meat: The noodles in Southern pho are often wider, and the dish includes a variety of meats, such as beef, chicken, and even seafood.

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1975: Global Spread

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The changes in pho during its time in the South also set the stage for its global spread. As Vietnamese refugees fled the country during and after the Vietnam War, they brought pho to new regions, leading to further adaptations and the international popularity of the dish.​

After the Vietnam War, many Vietnamese refugees brought pho to different parts of the world, particularly to the United States, Australia, and France where large Vietnamese communities were established.  With access to different or better produces and its adaptation to local tastes, pho underwent another milestone in its historical timeline. This global spread led to various regional adaptations of the dish, with differences in broth sweetness, noodle width, and choice of herbs and sauces.

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Modern Variants

Today, pho is enjoyed worldwide with numerous variations. The two main styles are Northern (Hanoi) and Southern (Saigon) pho. Northern pho tends to have a clearer, more savoury broth, while Southern pho is known for its sweeter broth and wider array of herbs and garnishes.  Meanwhile, in Vietnam pho is also evolving on its own trajectory with the emergence of countless variations of this versatile dish. Madame Nhu has compiled a list of some of these variants, and you can read about them here: 50 Shades of Pho.

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Pho's journey from a humble street food to an international culinary icon mirrors Vietnam's own history of resilience and adaptation. Whether enjoyed in a bustling Hanoi street stall or a trendy Sydney restaurant (like Madame Nhu), pho continues to be a beloved dish that brings people together and recalls the complex history of Vietnam and its people in a single comforting and hearty bowl.

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Where to Try Pho Noodle Soup

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Madame Nhu is renowned for offering both classic and modern versions of pho noodle soup. We also offer many uncommon regional variants that you probably have never heard of. You can read more about the many variants of pho here, most of which are available at Madame Nhu.

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Read More

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Economic Development, Social Change and Rebellion - https://www.academia.edu

BBC, "Pho: The humble soup that caused an outrage", https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210421-pho-the-humble-soup-that-caused-an-outrage

Wikipedia, "Pho", https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pho
Phofever, "The Origins of Pho: Traditional Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup", http://phofever.com
Lovingpho, "The History and Evolution of Pho: A Hundred Years' Journey", https://www.lovingpho.com/pho-opinion-editorial/history-and-evolution-of-vietnamese-pho/